Must Haves!
Cupid dress, $726
Precious halter top, $396
Enchantment wrap top, $605
Aegean wrap top, $481 by State Of Grace
Sim-Sim skirt, $1090, by Easton Pearson
Husky Shoulders, $319, by Uberchic by Kirrily Johnston.
Vodka dress, $396, by Uberchic by Kirrily Johnston
sequin shrug, $295, by Saba
stretch satin leggings, $275, by Gwendolynne
1950s cocktail hat, $120, with beaded gloves, $35, from Empire 111
Le Now earrings, $89.95, by Mimco.
A fashionable fascination with vintage design continues.
On a visit to the Melbourne Fashion Festival in March, world-renowned retailer of original vintage fashion, Cameron Silver, described his remarkable collection as "more than unique".
"That's why they (movie stars) love them; because they're sick of cookie-cutter fashion."
Silver's Decades boutiques in the United States are considered the last word in one-off frocks and the only source of red-carpet knockouts where stars, including Nicole Kidman, Chloe Sevigny and Cate Blanchett, are required — and by all accounts, cheerfully willing — to pay full price.
(Freebies and frock-loans are the lot of Armani, Versace, Prada, and Dior, et al.)
"It's about them," says Silver of his frocks and the Hollywood process.
"It's not about some designer getting something on their (stars') backs."
Vintage, in other words, is a recognised track through homologous fashion trends (admittedly, more of a problem for wealthy Americans than most of us — but that's another story).
"Anyone can buy a haute couture gown if they've got enough money," says Silver. "But not everyone can have a (vintage original)."
His theory is that it takes more effort to find and choose the designer that suits you and, frankly, it's got to be in your size.
There's an awful irony here. Red carpet gowns are habitually copied by knock-off specialists. Thousands of replicas can be rushed to discount chain racks within a week. The concept of "unique" quickly becomes problematic. Original gowns lose their "originality" with every wear.
Hollywood's "second" owners of original vintage gowns are compelled to neglect them after a single trip down the red carpet, or to abandon to them to charity auctions.
More original vintage designer gowns must be found to feed increasing numbers of vintage fans (lovers of uniqueness or rarity) but there is, of course, only a finite supply.
Little wonder that vintage designs have now evolved into an enduring mainstream fashion trend that shows no sign of waning.
The supply is now infinite. The look once sought for being unique, offbeat, exotic and one of a kind, is now replicated in the millions for a complex tapestry of new reasons.
One popular theory plots fashion designers' repeated returns to vintage and retro style as proof that they've run out of ideas.
Another justifies the proliferation of 1920s, '30s, '40s and '50s styling in mainstream trends as our innate need for "comfort fashion" in a frightening, post-September 11 world.
The truth could exist in a combination of both theories, or perhaps fashion has simply paused on the intrinsic beauty of a silk-satin gown that drapes like water, or the classic glamour of a fur stole, or the delicate glint of beads and sequins meticulously hand-stitched on to sheer veil fabrics, into flimsy lace trims and silk-speckled embroidery.
Perhaps we just like fashion like that: classic, feminine and heart-stoppingly lovely.
May 21, 2004
http://www.theage.com.au/
Melbourne photographer Philip Castle found Parisians are every bit as hip as any girl or boy back home.
In the Marais district, a cheap cafe au lait costs $8 and Bright Young Parisians — wannabe pop stars, musicians and out-of-work models — lounge elegantly, languid as cooked spaghetti as they spin out the business of drinking one.
Retro 1970s fashion is the prevailing chic and Philip Castle’s camera is focused on a slim BYP with poker-straight hair and mottle-striped Missoni cardigan, stopped, mid-smile, like a retro Mona Lisa.
"The '70s era is a near inexhaustible influence," he scribbles, mindful of the fashion trend’s most photogenic devotees.
"In the bars and cafes of this trendy district — Marais is the Prahran of Paris — they mix perfectly with the wealthy that live around here."
Castle scribbles and snaps. "Wealthy socialites, here, have a light-hearted interest in fashion and the money to spend on a whim. If you’re not one of these, though, you can emulate the look: it just means a little more footwork and perhaps a few less designer labels mixed with your antiques.
"Antique sporting looks are also kicking around. I’m only seeing flashes, so far, but I like it. You know what? Next year, I’m coming to Paris with one of those old-fashioned, knitted football jerseys: the sleeveless kind with the floppy collar. A navy blue Carlton one would be great. I think the Uni Blues still play in them.
"I see lots of 1970s pop star looks, too, and ‘almost famous’ groupie looks. Lots of Partridge Family kids. And, sports shoes. Here’s another tip: sports shoes and trainers continue to be influenced by traditional sporting uniforms.
Of course, tennis shoes are an ‘old faithful’, as well as sprint runners and bowling shoes. But what’s brand new are the boxing boots and baseballers. (Everlast and Puma)."
Final notes
Strong tip for the guys: ’70s sports jacket and jeans or cotton drills
Strong tip for the girls: all exotic relics from the ’70s, especially jackets and cardies — the more unique the better.
If you have confidence in your own ability, try the antique clothing stores.
Strong tip for everyone: scarves of all kinds.
November 28, 2003
http://www.theage.com.au/ |
